Found the following article at http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/gear-featu ... s/496.html
- would appear dubbin has fallen out of favour.
Grangers g wax says it's beeswax based and this ehow item suggests beeswax alone can do the job. http://www.ehow.com/how_2070133_waterproof-boots.html
Outdoors magic article;-
After The Walk
First step is to clean off any mud or debris using cold water and possibly a sponge. Neglect this and minute particles of dirt can penetrate the leather causing damage and wear, same with the laces, which you should remove and rinse.
Don't forget the inside of the boot, remove loose dirt and occasionally rinse them out too. The salt contained in perspiration can penetrate leather uppers and damage them.
If your boots are damp then remove the insoles and leave them to dry at room temperature. Don't stand them by radiators, put them in the airing cupboard or microwave them, you'll dry out the leather and damage it, at worst it'll crack and be ruined.
If the inners are damp - and modern lining materials are designed to suck up water, so check carefully - use the old trick of stuffing them with newspaper. Leave the paper for five minutes then remove and repeat until the paper's coming out dry. This will remove excess water. Never leave the newspaper in the boot while it dries. You need to get air to the interior.
Boots generally come with some form of water repellancy, either a spray-type treatment or as part of the tanning process, however this will wear off with use - often after only a few days walking - and needs to be replaced both to keep your feet dry and protect the leather from damage.
There are plenty of treatments around, some boot makers recommend a certain brand, but the two products we'd suggest come from Nikwax and Grangers. You should make your choice according to the material of your boots.
With conventional Nikwax or Graingers G-Wax, you need to wait until the leather's dry before applying the wax. Use your fingers to warm and melt it, then massage it into the boot uppers. Don't forget the tongue and the areas around hooks and eyelets, rub well into the seams.
Nikwax also makes a range of Aqueoous products which can be applied when the leather is still damp, which means you can do the whole cleaning and reproofing gig in one, then move onto tea and cakes - great stuff.
Avoid Dubbin and other oil-based treatments should be avoided as they can damage stitching and soften the leather.
Use one of the wax-based treatments, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Nubuck, despite looking like suede. is actually a reversed-type leather, so the smooth bit is hidden on the inside. You can use conventional wax, but this will smooth down the nap of the leather giving it a smooth, waxy appearance. It won't damage the performance, but if you want to retain the nubuck look, you need to use a specialist nubuck treatment, either Grangers Nubuck Conditioner or Nikwax's Nubuck and Suede.
Both these proof and condition the material, but don't alter the appearance. You can raise the nap using a suede brush.
Most fabric boots actually incorporate a fair amount of leather, usually suede, and a waterproof / breathable lining. Either Nikwax Fabric and Leather or Graningers G-Sport should see you right with these. Alternatively, and this is unendorsed by anyone, simply empty a can of Scotchguard silicone based repellant on the boots and watch the water roll off next time out.
And When It All Goes Horribly Wrong...
Nikwax produce a liquid conditioner claimed to restore the suppleness of dried out leather and soften new boots slightly. Does it work? We don't know having smugly followed the instructions above to the letter for years...