Hi Melly, some suggestions you might not find in the Bookes
I think it helps to think '
deep bed' (John Seymour's original idea) rather than '
raised bed'. I've made deep beds with no additional organic matter, using a broadfork to fluff up the soil (like a lawn aerator).
Organic stuff is laid on as mulch whenever we can get hold of it, and the worms do the digging. Organic mulch includes seaweed, straw, hay, spent hops, comfrey, borage, nettles, shredded paper, raw or rotted compost, raw or rotted manure, fresh or rotted leaves, stalk shreddings, spent potting compost, newspaper.
Lay out beds and paths with string and pegs, and
don't edge for at least one, preferably more, seasons. You might change your mind about layout/size/orientation, and/or decide not to edge - you don't need edges at all, I find it easier (and cheaper!) without

and if you're practising in the garden they'll be easier to convert to something else when you get your plot
Make sure you can reach
easily - without over-stretching - to the middle of the bed. My beds are 1.25m wide, with 60cm paths separating beds, and a 1m path going up the middle. Most are 13-15 ft long. Most people make their beds a tad too wide for comfort the first time.
If you want to
avoid weeding, lay damp newspaper thickly over the bed, cover with organic mulch, and keep the mulch topped up to around 8 inches. At sowing or planting time, rake off the mulch and sow/plant as normal, then when the seedlings come up, push the mulch back around the plants.
Invest in
paths. We use woven black plastic topped with several inches of woodchips (the Council deliver these f.o.c.) Paths are the unsung heroes of a bed system IMO

When you get your plot, edge the boundaries with a good 18" of plastic woven membrane so perennial weeds don't encroach on all that good work, then you won't need to use Roundup.
Never tread on the beds!
Hope you have fun experimenting with your beds, happy sowing and growing for 2007
