How to make soap

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IrishAbroad
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How to make soap

Post: # 5049Post IrishAbroad »

Due to popular demand (well MillyMollyMandy asked me) here's how to make Castile Soap (or olive oil soap)

Castile soap is a hard, pure and verymild soap with great moisturising properties (and in the shops it's bl**dy expensive)

Ingredients

1litre Olive oil (try to get the cheapest lowest quality oil as it's actually better for soap making)
130g Caustic Soda (Soude Caustique in French, Mr. Bicolage sells it as paint stripper)
400ml Water (rain water if you can get any :lol: )

First of all suit up like a spaceman - rubber gloves, goggles etc cos Caustic Soda's v nasty stuff.

put COLD water in a saucepan (NOT ALUMINIUM ONE!!!)
Slowly add the Caustic Soda and stir until dissolved (try not to breathe in the fumes - there isn't really much fumes but don't stick your head in the pan and sniff)
The solution will get hot but this is normal.
Allow to cool for about an hour.
When it's all dissolved add the oil slowly and stir constantly and slowly so as not to splash
and keep stirring
and keep stirring
and did I mention to keep stirring (you can use a blender on a slow setting)
after about 30 minutes of stirring it will thicken to a pea soup consistency - this is known as "trace" cos the spoon leaves a trace on the surface.

Now you can add any frangrances you want - orange blossom's quite good

Now pour into a mould - something like a flat baking tray and leave until solid - this can take a few days so be patient

Remove from the mould (I line mine with grease proof paper to make it easy) and cut into bars with a warm knife

The bars now need to be left for at least 4 weeks to cure, turning every day. This makes sure all the caustic soda is gone (although in theory it should be gone within 1 day but better to be safe)

Now you have bars of soap.

You can try any oil or lard or a mix but keep the quantities the same (always 1 litre oil to 130g soda)

Palm oil and coconut oil add a better lather.

Oh and one last thing - don't clean your tools (spoons etc) for a couple of days just to make sure you are not rinsing caustic soda down the plug hole - not good for the environment :wink:

As long as you treat the soda with respect you'll have fun.

One last thing, never add soda to hot water - it spits!!

ina
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Post: # 5051Post ina »

Any idea where to get caustic soda in Britain? This recipe sounds great - and I am so lucky with my place of work, we have an underused lab here with a fume cupboard, and goggles, and gloves, and all the rest of it...

Ina

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Post: # 5059Post matty »

well. sounds good. but ina, if you can't find caustic soda you can always use certain wood ashes i believe. have not yet found time to try myself though. but it is what i have read. (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepage ... OtherSites)
although it sounds like you work in a lab with all the fume cupboards and googles...one would think you can find caustic soda hanging around somewhere! but cheers for the recipe IA. will have to debate whether forking out for a litre of olive oil is worth smelling nice.i might do once my supply of pears soap finishes....i believe someone once wrote that "one only becomes moral when one is unhappy"...anyway.
Cheers

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Post: # 5061Post Wombat »

G'Day All,

We get tins of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) in our woolies as it can be used as a drain cleaner (but for soap you need the pur stuff!). It is also available in harware stores. If that fails try your local chemist (may be a bit expensive) and failing that hit the Yellow Pages and try laboratory supply companies - but don't get laboratory grade or (heaven forbid) analyitical reagent (AR) grade or you will need to mortgage your house. If you must use lab supply then try to get industrial grade only, it should be the cheapest.

Lots of luck!

Nev
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Post: # 5062Post Millymollymandy »

That's amazing - I mean that soap has caustic soda in it and then you rub in on your body! Tres bizarre.....

Thanks for the "recipe". I really was interested in how it is made. As to whether I will try or not is another matter. I have sensitive skin...... :lol:

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Post: # 5066Post Wombat »

G'Day M3,

If the soap is correctly made all the caustic soda is reacted with the fats and oils - there should be no "free" alkali!

Nev
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Post: # 5069Post leedarkwood »

Dont try making wood ashes. Please don't try this, you will not be able to judge the correct amount of caustic to use, and it is dangerous. Olive is traditional in areas where it is the most common fat, but makes a rather poor soap in many ways, hard to lather and takes ages to go hard. If you go to www.thesage.com and look in the calculator section, you can use nearly any fats and oils to make soap. I would recommend using at least 20% coconut oil for a good lather and use lard (sodium tallowate, the principle ingredient on a dove bar last time I looked), rape oil, caster oil (brilliant for lather, good for a shaving soap), corn oil, olive or safflower oil for the rest, you can make up a mixture of any number of oils, as long as you run them through a soap calculator to get the right amount of caustic. YOU CAN NOT guess this, each oil has a different amount of caustic needed, and the balance is crucial. Too much caustic and you have a harsh soap that can harm your skin. Too little and your soap goes rancid. If you look at any soap bar they should by law have the ingrediants listed, oil combined with caustic undergoes a process called saponification, and the new chemical, which is now neither oil nor caustic, is called by the name of the oil with sodium in front and 'ate' at the back, sodium oliveate for example. To test if your soap is cured enough, after four weeks (which it should be, but let's make sure), flick your tongue onto a bar for a second. If it tastes like soap, it is, if it tastes tingly and like a tiny electric shock, leave it for longer. The longer you leave it the better and harder the bar will be, fresh soap melts into a puddle by the bath. Don't try putting petals and stuff into your soap, they go brown. But a good trick is to put a loofa in slices into your mould and pour the soap on top, you get a nice scrubby soap. Oatmeal is nice, and coffee grounds makes a great kitchen soap, very fine sand makes a soap for a garage owner! I use a pringles tube for a quick mould for beginners. Leave it over night at least before you cut the end off and push out the soap, still wearing gloves and cut into slices to cure. You get a nice round slice or cut it thicker and then across for a half moon that fits the hand well. Don't make soap ever with kids or cats in the room. Soap making is dangerous and sensible precautions need to be taken. You can buy caustic soda, sodium hydroxide at any hardware shop, ask for drain cleaner and check the ingredients, there should be no other things listed. You can stir by hand, but it is very boring, I and most soap makers now use a hand blender, it usualy takes about five minutes or less to trace, zap it for a few seconds, leave a few seconds, etc. Thin layers of soap on pans and tools should saponify overnight, but wash with gloves on. You get lovely clean pans....
Soap making is a great hobby, there is a useful and very friendly list on yahoo under UK soaping, and I run a list on yahoo for soapmakers trying to turn their hobby into a business, called The slipperly slope!
One last thing, modern commercial soap is on the whole fairly tough on the skin. Traditional soap is lovely and gentle. This is because when the oil and caustic combine they produce a by product called glycerin, which enables the skin to absorb moisture. Commercial soapmakers extract this and sell it to the chemical industry for more than they can sell the soap. Hand made soap is the best thing you can use on your skin. Start reading the labels on your toiletries, you will be amazed at what you are using. Most use the same detergents as you use to clean the floor, plus other weird stuff. You know those glittery shampoos, that look so nice? Fish scales, chopped up. Welcome to the wonderful world of toiletry marketing.
Lee

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Post: # 5071Post Millymollymandy »

Thanks Lee, that is very informative. Is the glycerin you mention the same thing as glycerin(e) that I used to put in hot honey and lemon drink when I had a cough or sore throat?

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Post: # 5073Post leedarkwood »

Yes.

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Post: # 5074Post Muddypause »

...and is also put in anti-freeze and high explosives (ie nitro-glycerine).

Lee, I had no idea that soap making was so hazardous, or that there was a soap-making community. I might have a go myself.
Stew

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leedarkwood
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Post: # 5075Post leedarkwood »

Yes it is hazardous, and if it goes wrong, like you knock the bowl off the counter and drop the mix all over your bare feet, you are on the way to hospital. But if you take sensible precautions, like covering your skin as much as possible, treat any very tiny splashes with vinegar and lots of water, don't leave things around for children to touch etc, it is a very satisfying and fun thing to do. Also please keep in mind that while you can give your soaps away or swop them, selling them is subject quite rightly to very strict rules, and you have to have every recipe checked by an industrial chemist who can certify them, register with the DTI, and trading standards, comply with all the labelling rules etc. That is why I set up a group to help us sort out all the paperwork!
If you would like to make soap as a craft activity with children, then I suggest you look at 'melt and pour soap' which uses a premade base you can melt. The efforts you can get are just stunning, have a look at my friend's website at www.meltandpoursupplies.com where you can find out all about this.
Lee

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Post: # 5076Post ina »

This craft sounds more and more interesting! Has anybody tried to use not marigold petals, but an oil infusion of marigold for soap making? I had the idea that that might give a particularly beneficial soap, especially if, like me, you often have little nicks and scratches on the skin.

And it's a brilliant idea to add fine sand. I used to get stuff like that for very dirty work hands - now they only seem to sell gel stuff, which is supposed to dissolve the oil, but doesn't really do the job. I've resorted to using cream cleaner for the hands...

Ina

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Post: # 5080Post leedarkwood »

Add essential oils and other extras at trace before putting into the mould.
have fun!

Guest

Post: # 5108Post Guest »

Unless i'm mistaken, the bit that you have left over, after extraction/separation of soaps and glycerin is, er, biodiesel !

(although I see no mention of ethanol - Biodiesel is vegetable oil with glycerin/soaps removed - and its production certainly involves sodium hydroxide).


Guess this means that your exhaust fumes can smell as good as your armpits (or something)

IrishAbroad
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Post: # 5117Post IrishAbroad »

Just reading up at all the posts I've generated heehee. (Been away for the weekend).

Ina - B&Q, T***o, Wicks, Do-It-All etc all sell it.

Lee - Yep you are right about the price and the lather but it does make a very gentle and moisturising soap and I live in France so olive oil is relatively cheap - Rape seed seems to work very well and this weekend I tried a Rape/Olive mix (about 50-50) Hardened quicker too. You can always use 30% good melted lard in the mix as well (traditional English soap) but no good for any "veggies" out there.

MuddyP - Nitroglycerine is made from mixing Nitric Acid with Glycerine (with a little Sulphuric acid) - Don't!!!

If the soap is left to cure properly - at least 4 weeks then all the caustic soda will have gone. Just make sure your measures are accurate (digi scales!!!) You can test the soap using one of those soil pH kits. The soap guidelines are...

Mild body soap, a pH from 5 to 8.
A pH from about 8 to 10 seems fairly optimal for hand soap.

and to try and put peoples mind at ease my "full" title is...
Dr. Martin Montgomery PhD Org. Chem. QUB. :oops: (doctor of chemistry)

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