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No, not a game. I've got to do some more remedial pruning with this apple tree
and I'm not sure how far down to take it. It's a standard (or thinks it is) so the
rootstock is pretty vigorous.



I'd appreciate it if anyone with any experience of remedial pruning would take
the time to post an edited version of this, maybe with marks where you would
cut. At the moment the tree has some canker in the upper branches, and as with
many old trees only fruits right at the top. I'm quite prepared to go without
apples for a couple of years if it means we can keep the tree!

Great idea! Unfortunately, I don't know much about pruning... So far, my goats have always managed to "prune" my little trees somehow or other - thanks to the hurdles I use to protect them from their teeth, the result's not too bad. (I can lend them out, if you like!)

Keep those goats away from me! (unless they can use photoshop)

Last time I met a goat it ate my opal fruits (that's dated me) and the pocket that they were in...

Lucky you if you only have one like that! We have just done about 10. The long whippy bits should have been cut last summer though but we were too busy. I didn't take off any more large branches as mine are only fruiting every two years and I do want some apples this year! So we will finish the major pruning next winter and I will endeavour to do the correct summer pruning this year.

However I just do what I think is best because my books on pruning are never, ever, like the reality!

You should remove a lot of the water shoots (sprouts?) but some of them will be kept to form new branches and/or new fruiting spurs. Try to keep the inside of the tree clear and look at suitable 'new' branches pointing in the best position outwards. I really am no expert and you probably know all that anyway. I'll let you know if I get any apples this year!

Have to agree with you MMM. We inherited three neglected apple trees in our last house,the first year we cut any straggly branches,we had about half a dozen apples off of each, the following year we cut more straggly bit,inward facing branches and branches that crossed,that year we moved and the trees gave their best fruit ever,the branches were loaded,and we never got to pick a single one! I think rather than a text book thing,its more of a "feel",didnt I read somewhere that a rose (ok different thing I know but bear with me) flowers just as well after being cut back with a hedgecutter than it does after being text book pruned,I rest my case!

Okay then... I'll be really tough on it as I pruned lightly last year in the hope of stimulating some bottom growth, and all the happened was the remaining topgrowth grew faster!

We inherited three of these beasts. I was really hard on the worst one, took it down to about 3' high. Lots of whippy growth in the first year which I took the top third off. Lots more whippy growth coming from that last year, but now starting to be a proper tree shape so I'll thin it out and prune for fruit this year, and we'll see. I'll post the "after" shot so you can gasp in horror next week.

'They' say that major surgery should be spread out over 2 to 3 years, so as not to stress the tree too much.

Can't Say that i am an expert pruner either - my father was but he is in a place where I can't ask him!

M3s comments look good to me. If you are making substantial cuts, you might want to consider pruning mastic to cover the open areas Hedgwiz, to stop infections and keep out rainwater etc.

Nev

I didn't think to mention that but we do it as our trees are cantankerous (as I call them - they have canker). Also sterilise your tools between trees. Wipe them with meths or dip in water + bleach (although that tends to rust blades and husbands don't like that ).

I've actually been pussyfooting around with that tree for two years now, it was much worse. Last year I think I was too kind in the hope of getting some apples (it was a heavy fruiter before I started but a real mess in terms of all the fruit being 15' up in the air and spread way too widely).

There was another tree that was much worse for canker and I took it down to a three-foot "stool" almost as if it was a hazel, reasoning that if I didn't it was going to die anyway. It produced a lot of water shoots the first year and a lot of side growth the year after - I think I got away with it because it's on a very vigourous rootstock. Why in the hell would anyone plant standard apple trees (which want to be HUGE!) in a garden?

Because, and it's not their fault, many people don't know about different size rootstocks and will just buy 'a fruit tree'. It is the fault of the (1) the growers for not labelling them correctly and (2) the people selling them for not ensuring that they are correctly labelled and the necessary info is given to the buyer.

I'd only buy from a reputable nusery who knew what the Malling codes meant. It is a problem in France because they don't use the MM nos. but have some sort of obscure code for their rootstocks, which is never given on a label. You need to ask and often you'll find staff in garden centres don't have a clue. Often fruit for sale will be just labelled 'redcurrant' or 'gooseberry' although they do give 'names' for apples etc.

Anyway it all irritates me as I see so many things in garden centres, catalogues etc where very important but basic info is not given - such as - only grows in acid soil. Duh, kind of important!!!

Back away or the apple tree gets it! Oops, too late...



Extreme pruning championship 2006!

whoa. Makes me want to cry... but I'm very sensitive over trees being 'cut down' since I lost my favourite in the backyard to a storm.

All the best to your apple tree.

wow

Bloody Nora - you chainsaw man or wot? Isn't that a bit drastic?