making candle/ fire lighters etc....

[Big Al]

I said I would put up a how to on candle making in a day or two so here goes. I will put in the proviso that I'm totally knackered as the back kicked off even more on Monday and I've not slept yet so there will need some editing and also some pictures but bear with me please. I'll edit this post for spelking mistaks and pictures as soon as possible.


For elf and safety reasons and litigeous reasons please be aware that these instructions include the use of heat sources and hot melted wax, both of which will burn and disfigure. If you are not confident with this please buy your candles.


Ok folks here is how I made a candle… or the odd 10,000 or so.

You can make candles from all sorts of waxes; if it burns you can generally make a candle. The aim of this post is to show how I made high quality candles.

I much prefer the use of paraffin wax over all the other types such as tallow, beeswax, gel wax, stearin, Soya wax et al. It’s a personal choice but the paraffin wax, providing you buy good quality wax such as that with an oil content of less than 0.05% and not the “Chinese wax” that has up to 20% oil in it… (Gives of a lot of black smoke) you will be able to make a long lasting and well behaving candle.

There are a number of ways to make a candle such as the dipping method and a favorite with beeswax particularly. I’m too impatient for that and I don’t like the smell so for me the two main candle types are pillar candles and container candles. By their description a pillar candle stands up and a container candle is in a container.

Sounds straight forward but my first candle was made with container wax and I put it in a pillar mold, well it was a container… wrong, when a container candle melts it forms a pool of wax in the container and mine just melted all over a shelf and dropped down onto a 19th century table…

Ok we can start with ingredients and for the sake of clarity I’ll make a pillar candle here.

You will need:

A large pan.
A second smaller pan / jug / pouring vessel.
Water
Paraffin wax
Vybar 0.5% by weight Optional
Stearin. Around 5% by weight. Optional
A mould
Some Wick
A cocktail stick or skewer.
A heat source gas / leccy hob
A Thermometer
Some blue / white tack
Heatproof gloves, goggles Apron old clothes etc.
Sometimes a baking tray is handy.


Going through these items the large pan is used for the water bath and together with the melt jug this is known as a double boiler. Put one pan on the cooker hob and put some water in it. Bring the water up to boiling point and then turn down to a rolling simmer. Meanwhile weigh out your wax and put this into another pan or jug.

Place this second vessel into the water and this hot water will melt the wax. NEVER EVER MELT PARAFFIN BASED WAX DIRECTLY ON A HEAT SOURCE as it will flash over without warning and believe me you will only do it once. How women pluck their eyebrows I will never know but the pain is the same I guess. Add to that the wax can be sprayed all over your kitchen and be on fire as well.

So you have weighed your wax out say 300g for your first 0ne and this is in the second pan, jug etc. In the pictures you can see the melt pots I use and these are imported from America. You can get them over here but they cost an arm and a leg so a Pyrex jug or another pan will do. Again make sure the water does not come over the second just into the wax. It’s not the end of the world but it is a pain.

I’ve put into the list some Vybar and Stearin. I guess these are not that important for your first candles but the addition will make the candles harder and longer burning. The idea behind the Vybar is to lock in the molecules of scent if you are using this but if not then it’s a harder candle, thus longer burning.

These are the compounds that make the pure paraffin wax behave in a more uniform way.

Next up is a mould. Again it is worth the effort to buy a metal mould, as these are more robust and safer than the likes of Pringles tubes or yogurt cartons etc. Don’t forget your pour temperature of hot wax will be around 68 to 72 deg C and a yogurt pot is not the ideal vessel in my humble opinion.
For the sake of a couple of quid off an auction site or flea market etc you will get better candles and be safer in the making. I will not endorse using anything other than metal moulds, or at a pinch specific plastic or latex candle moulds.

Obviously you need to have a wick to put in the candle wax and they are a science in themselves. Believe me it is a science, a black art, a mystery and a massive frustration all at once. I used to carry over 124 different wicks types and sizes and as the anorak I was I knew which would be needed for any given combination of wax, colour, scent and diameter. The only sure way to know what is going on with scents and colours is to test, test, and test some more so best avoid these for now.

Ok, Basically candle wicks are first measured for use in the diameter of the candle so if you want to make a candle of 2” in diameter you need t buy a wick that has been tested to burn in a 2” diameter candle. Sounds straightforward but if you add a colour then this may make the wick burn uneven so you may need to go up a size or down a size. Then add a scent and depending on the viscosity of the oil and the properties again the maker might need to move several sizes or even a different type of wick but as you are all not anoraks we will stick with a 3” candle mould and a wick suitable for this candle size.

Makers of cheapo candles tend to use what they have available and one example of this will be self evident to a lot of housewives with a candle fetish and this in known as tunneling. This is where you have say a 2” diameter candle and the outside ½” is still there with the wick disappearing down the middle. There is a second reason for tunneling and I’ll cover that in the remedies a bit later but this can be virtually eliminated by using the correct wick for the correct candle wax.

Some of the types of wick you can get are LX, zinc core, cloth, cotton, fibre, x plait and the list goes on.

The biggest wick that will burn well will only burn a 3” candle so if you find a supplier who says one wick will burn a 4” or above candle they are talking bollocks.

You can burn large diameter candles, my record is a 27” diameter inverse cone candle and that had 12 wicks in but was more for show rather than use although it was lit. If say you were making a 6” round candle you could put in 2 x 3” wicks but a better solution would be to use 3 x 2” wicks. This would give a more even burn with less wax wastage.

So you have a quantity of good quality paraffin wax on the melt and possibly some Vybar and stearin. A good wick for your candle. You will also need a good thermometer as this will help stop flashovers. Again different waxes melt at different temperatures depending on their make up and you pour a candle at different temperatures if you want different finishes. Such as bubbles on the outside you use a high pour temperature, actually this is seen as a flaw but the effect can be good. Also if you make ice candles it is better to use a lower temperature pour.

I wouldn’t add any scent for your first one and after all it is a survival situation we are looking at. Likewise for colour simply for the reasons above about testing.

Now a most controversial statement. On the point of scent don’t bother buying candles that are sold to you as being made with essential oils. The basic reasons are that essential oils only have a short shelf life so will probably lose all their so called health properties very fast but mainly because the essential oils burn off at around 50 Deg C and the hottest point of a candle flame is around 400 Deg C. These candles have a good “cold throw” where you can smell the scent when it is unlit but as soon as it is lit you cannot smell the scent because it has all been burnt off. Do a search on the web for this and make your own mind up.

Ok so your wax is melting, you have your mould and wick. It is a good idea having cut the wick to length plus 5 cm to then put this wick into the wax jug. The wick will give off bubbles and that means the wax is soaked into the wick. This makes sure the wick doesn’t smoulder and go out. Take it out using the thermometer and leave on the bench to cool. As it cools roll it on the bench with the palm of your hands and this makes it easier to thread into the mould. Thread the wick through the small hole and it falls out of the open end but keep hold of the wick at the end. Place a bit of blu / white tac over this to stop the wax running out. It can also help hold the mould in place. You can buy rubber bungs but they are a pain to use IMHO.

Ok so you have the mould on the baking tray if using one with the wick out of the other end. Wrap this around the skewer and place the skewer across the mould.
Constantly check the temperature of the wax and when it reaches around 72 deg C lift the jug out wiping the base with a cloth. Be careful you are working with hot wax that will give deep burns.

I like to pour the wax at 68 Deg C so pour the wax into the mould and let it go to the top. I like to pour it just so that the meniscus of the wax is about to overflow. The reason for this is that the volume of hot melted wax is greater than the volume of solid wax. Thus when the wax shrinks you will be left with a depression that needs filling up.

Now have a coffee and marvel at your creation. Leave it to cool overnight but as it does you can use another skewer to poke little holes into the wax skin that forms. This helps with reducing the air pockets. Next day check to see if there is a depression in the wax. If there is then you will need to melt some more wax and then pour it into the hole or depression. Leave the wax for at least 12 – 15 hours then you will be able to see your candle in the wax so to speak.
Pick up the mould, and if any wax is proud of the mould then trim it with a knife but be careful as alloy moulds cut easy with sharp knives.

Tip upside down and it ***should*** slide out. Easier if you have used the Vybar etc but if it doesn’t bung it in the fridge for half an hour and this contracts the wax just sufficient to let it slide out.

Don’t put it in the freezer as it will crack your candle.

You have just made your first candle…..
Be aware that it is addictive but engrossing all the same.

CONTAINER CANDLE

Virtually as above but you stick the wicks to the bottom of a jar and fill with container specific wax. You will see from the photo below the difference.


Votive candle these are small mix of the two. You can use paraffin wax but need to put them in a holder but also you can make them out of container wax. The difference is the container wax version gives of more scent and can burn for 10 – 12 hours the paraffin wax version about 18 hours. Paraffin wax candles are harder so transport easier.




Fire Starter


Fire starter, I am a fire starter……

Sorry I do like a bit of prodigy… I started to make fire starters because I wanted a way to use up all the spilt wax I was “wasting” because I was tight. I came across the idea of mixing sawdust with the wax and also later on via the net I saw a use of fir cones dipped in scented and glittered wax as Christmas ornaments…Hmm I thought… fire starters….. Both of these are detailed below.

Get yourself some bits of wick about 10cm long, the thicker the better. Some sawdust and your left over bits of wax. These can be old candles, scented tealights, Container wax, pillar wax doesn’t matter.

Put your sawdust on a baking tray. Melt you bits of left over wax and then pour over the sawdust. Leave to cool until you can put your hand on it without hurting. I then wear rubber kitchen gloves as the next bit is messy and can be hot so HEALTH WARNING HERE proceed with care… pick up a hand full in your palm and in the middle put a piece of wick.

Close your hand and make a ball, tube, square, triangle, little pygmy or whatever shape you like. Set to one side to dry / cool down. Leave for a couple of days to really harden up and bobs your aunti flo…you have a prodigy song….

Fire cones…

You need cones, wax and some wick about 15cm long..

Get your bit of wick and wrap it around the cone ending up at the top leaving about 2cm. Sit the cone onto a baking tray and slowly pour over wax that has been melted then cooled to around 50 deg C. leave to cool, jenny’s your uncle bob you have another…...




Cones with wick round them dipped in wax and also wax and sawdust..

[Minnesota]

Fire starters,
I use chips of wood from my chain saw, instead of dust.
I pack them in recycled paper egg cartons, then heat melted wax.
not the sfe double boiler why, but directly in a pot and
I heat it til it's smoking hot, yes a little dangerous, but when poured
into the egg cartons packed with wood chips, if foams up.
that way I don't end up with a candle with wood chips,
I get a lite frothy bundle of wood chips, wax and air.
it burns much hotter but for a shorter amount of time.
So when I start a fire, if the wood in the stove is
seasoned properly, I get hot fire faster everytime!

[Big Al]

Fire starters,
I use chips of wood from my chain saw, instead of dust.
I pack them in recycled paper egg cartons, then heat melted wax.
not the sfe double boiler why, but directly in a pot and
I heat it til it's smoking hot, yes a little dangerous, but when poured
into the egg cartons packed with wood chips, if foams up.
that way I don't end up with a candle with wood chips,
I get a lite frothy bundle of wood chips, wax and air.
it burns much hotter but for a shorter amount of time.
So when I start a fire, if the wood in the stove is
seasoned properly, I get hot fire faster everytime!

Minnesota, If you do this in a kitchen or indoor environment then you are incredibly stupid. I hope you will stop doing this as you are an accident waiting to happen. If you are doing thius outside then fine you have plenty of space and it won't flash over. If you want air in your starters then let the wax cool to around 50 deg c and wisk it in the pot. This is the way you make snow like wax for Christmas decs.

[Minnesota]

I would never do this in the House.
I do this outside, in the open on a calm sunny day.
I use a camp stove with a small burner.
I use a large soup pot with tall sides.
I use a dipper to scoup out some smokin' hot wax
to pour into the egg cartons packed with wood chips.
There is little chance for flash over...but possible.
I am as careful as I can be.
Dangerous...yes it is, and I did say it is.

I like the wisk idea, except then it wouldn't flow
through the wood chips.

Boy, if someone did this is a house, the fumes might
over come a person...let alone the fire risk !

[Millymollymandy]

Doesn't candle wax harm your wood burner?

[John Headstrong]

this is a test reply, please ignore

sorry for any inconvenience.

John Headstrong

[testd00d]

this is a test reply, please ignore

sorry for any inconvenience.

John Headstrong

and another one

JH

[Millymollymandy]

ha ha lucky it's on this thread with the editing problems as I opened it up to zap you for being a spammer.

[Green Aura]

Me too!

[Minnesota]

Doesn't candle wax harm your wood burner?

NOT that I am aware of ?
I've used the same Century (made in Canada) air light wood stove
since I bought it in 1998. still looks great and works great.
I have a stainless steel flue liner (installed 1998 also).
I sweep that once a year. I have never noticed any
damage to that either.

The Big Box stores sell waxy wood chip bars for starting fires
in wood stoves. Not that they know what is best.

what harm may be happening ?

[Millymollymandy]

I've no idea what harm other than it might leave a waxy coating over the surface of the inside of the wood burner. I've never burnt candle wax at high temperatures so I don't know what might happen to them! My wood burner instructions say not to burn anything inside (like rubbish etc) except for good quality hard woods. So I am about pine cones and candle wax!

[Green Aura]

Doesn't it just evaporate - otherwise we'd wax all over our walls from burning candles in a room, wouldn't we?

There's certainly no evidence of it inside our boiler, although we only use them on days when there's no wind - a fairly rare occurrence up here

[Millymollymandy]

I was thinking more of the pool of wax you get when you burn a candle, only heated to massive temperatures - I have no idea whether this would explode or what! - having read some of Big Al's post about don't ever mix sawdust and candle wax indoors because it is combustible I am wondering why we'd do the same thing on a fire or in a wood burner. On the other hand we use fire lighters in it which are designed for that purpose which I think are made from paraffin wax, but I don't know what candle wax is made from.

[Big Al]

I've no idea what harm other than it might leave a waxy coating over the surface of the inside of the wood burner. I've never burnt candle wax at high temperatures so I don't know what might happen to them! My wood burner instructions say not to burn anything inside (like rubbish etc) except for good quality hard woods. So I am about pine cones and candle wax!

The rerason they say that is in case you burn all sorts of things then sue them. For instance if you burn wood that has been soaked in creosote you get arsnic vapours given off and the likes of painted wood gives of carcinogenic compounds. Also if you are in a smoke control area and the council sees you burning rubbish etc then they can fine you and it would be bad for the fire makers to be hauled into court if they said you could burn anything in their fires.

When we had an open fire everything went on. We used to play the flame game in that you guess what colour the flames would be with a given item to burn.. plastic was the best colour wise etc......

{ simple things please sim....)

[Annpan]

My wood burner also said not to burn anything other than well seasoned wood....

I burn just about everything... well, not plastic and rarely anything with moisture (veg waste etc) but creasoted wood has gone in more than once I check the chimney regularly enough I guess, and I am not worried. At the moment our house is heated with the proceeds of the demolition....lots and lots of half rotten chunks of 70 year old wood...