Although it is a tad late this year, I'd be grateful for advice on both companion and sacrifice planting for the next season. I know that growing marigolds or basil with tomatoes is beneficial, but I'd like to know how to deter pests, and if that fails, what can I plant to attract the beasts from my other plants?
Virtually all of my basil was destroyed by slugs this year, so I had none to plant with my tomatoes. Slugs also destroyed my French beans. This has been a bad year anyhow as it has been hot and dry, but assuming that we receive more favourable weather conditions next year, I'd like to know what I can do to protect my crops, without resorting to using chemicals.
Companion planting/sacrifice planting
One I was told about and used (and was successful) was to plant carrots next to onions. Apparently carrot flies can't stand onions and vice versa.
Also pick some elder leaves, bruise them and leave them in a bucket of water for a few days and use this spray on your veggies it keeps bugs away and if like me you get 'bitten' a lot - a handful of crushed elder leaves rubbed on your skin acts as a brilliant insect repellent (but it stinks!)
Also pick some elder leaves, bruise them and leave them in a bucket of water for a few days and use this spray on your veggies it keeps bugs away and if like me you get 'bitten' a lot - a handful of crushed elder leaves rubbed on your skin acts as a brilliant insect repellent (but it stinks!)
Thanks for the info. I grew carrots one year, but the ground is poor (stony and clay) so most were fanged. I haev now dug a new plot, so may try again next year.
We have tons of elder growing locally, so I will definitely try the spray. I also get bitten a lot (currently covered in large red lumps), so I shalln't worry about smelling vile, anything to stop the biting!
We have tons of elder growing locally, so I will definitely try the spray. I also get bitten a lot (currently covered in large red lumps), so I shalln't worry about smelling vile, anything to stop the biting!
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Millymollymandy
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Read my 
Thanks for the hanging container info; looks very useful as the canes have to be in the ground for the tomatoes anyhow.
Does anyone know what pests might attack young coriander plants? I had some pots with seedlings growing on an outside window-ledge. When I opened the shutters one morning, the coriander plants had disappeared. There were no slime-trails, but a load of small whitish moths flew out from behind the shutters. Would moths attack the plants? All other attempts at growing coriander have failed this year due to lack of rainfall and high temperatures. As it is impossible to get the herb here, I'd love to be able to grow it - especially as we eat so much Indian-style food. Any tips for success?
Does anyone know what pests might attack young coriander plants? I had some pots with seedlings growing on an outside window-ledge. When I opened the shutters one morning, the coriander plants had disappeared. There were no slime-trails, but a load of small whitish moths flew out from behind the shutters. Would moths attack the plants? All other attempts at growing coriander have failed this year due to lack of rainfall and high temperatures. As it is impossible to get the herb here, I'd love to be able to grow it - especially as we eat so much Indian-style food. Any tips for success?
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Millymollymandy
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wulf
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Slugs are still a contender - they don't leave a trail everywhere they go. I'm planning on trying a wider range of hanging herbs next year, definitely including coriander (which I also failed with this year).
I love the taste but my wife hates it, which makes it not worth buying pots or bunches. I'd like to have two or three flourishing plants so that I can pick a bit for when I want it (or even to chew on as I work in the garden).
Wulf
I love the taste but my wife hates it, which makes it not worth buying pots or bunches. I'd like to have two or three flourishing plants so that I can pick a bit for when I want it (or even to chew on as I work in the garden).
Wulf
Hope this is of use, I've tried the chives/carrot and toms/marrigold but wil try the others next year
ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.
CHIVES Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews
Geranium: -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn, and cabbage.
MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.
French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds.
Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.
POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.
ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.
CHIVES Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews
Geranium: -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn, and cabbage.
MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.
French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds.
Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.
POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.
During our first year here, I successfully grew coriander in the ground in my herb patch. The following year was a disaster; I kept sowing, but only two plants came up and they soon perished. As last year had been such a failure, I thought I'd try growing in pots. I still have some seeds, so I'll sow a few in the ground this afternoon.
I had no idea that chives were useful as pest deterrents; I have some established clumps so will move them to the veg patch, assuming that they don't mind being moved. I also grow both French marigold and the 'usual' type, but didn't realise that the French version was useful. I have plenty of seeds, so will try that next year too. Thank you all very much!
I had no idea that chives were useful as pest deterrents; I have some established clumps so will move them to the veg patch, assuming that they don't mind being moved. I also grow both French marigold and the 'usual' type, but didn't realise that the French version was useful. I have plenty of seeds, so will try that next year too. Thank you all very much!
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Millymollymandy
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Tay - what is your soil like? The coriander I grow in the veg patch is better than that I've grown in the herb patch, which is very dry and sandy soil anyway, but with the addition of leftover lime mortar and sand from the previous owners renovations!
I do water the coriander every day in summer also.
I do water the coriander every day in summer also.
Thanks MillyMollyMandy. The soil in our field at the back of the house (where the veg patch was for the previous two years, and the herb patch still is) has a clay soil and is very stony as well. 2004 had more rainfall than the last two years, so this may have something to do with it. Plus I watered more frequently as the patch was newly dug and the perennials hadn't been in for long. I rarely water every day as it would cost too much, so this was another reason for me thinking that pots would be ideal as I do water potted plants daily when dry.
As last year was terribly hot and dry, I dug a new patch to the front of the house. This bit of land had been used as a salad garden in the past and as a result, the soil is much better. There are clay pockets, but not many and very few stones.
As you said that coriander is pretty hardy, I shall experiment by planting more seeds, some in pots, some in the herb patch and some in the new vegetable patch and I'll see how the plants fare over the winter.
As last year was terribly hot and dry, I dug a new patch to the front of the house. This bit of land had been used as a salad garden in the past and as a result, the soil is much better. There are clay pockets, but not many and very few stones.
As you said that coriander is pretty hardy, I shall experiment by planting more seeds, some in pots, some in the herb patch and some in the new vegetable patch and I'll see how the plants fare over the winter.
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Millymollymandy
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Give it a go and see what works best for you. I was amazed that the coriander didn't die during the winter - we had loads of nights with minus temperatures and several times -8 or -9C. Obviously it's no good when it is frozen but the daytimes when it is milder it was fine for picking. The leaves are a bit darker coloured than during the summer, and possibly a bit stronger tasting, but it's just so nice that it doesn't run to seed like in the summer!