I'm starting a program of insulation with our old Victorian heat sink included is:
24.fill in the gaps between skirting boards and floor boards (put your hand near one and you'll feel how much air comes through on ground floors), I use the tubes of gunk you can get from B&Q
25. (Re) lag all the under floor CH pipes to and from the boiler/rads, so that the heat gets to the rads where you need it. (do the foil thing as well behind the rads.)
26.Keep unused rooms shut and rads on frost guard (if fitted with themo valves)
27. fit thermo valves, and adjust room temp to it's requirement , ie cooler in bedrooms and kitchen, warmer in living room and bathrooms.
28. Make sure you've got a balanced radiator system (unlike me who can't be arsed to faf about ,then keeps going on about how this room always takes ages to heat up,and that room is always toasty really quickly...but its the dining room.
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
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29. Fit daught excuders on all doors internal and external. We've got big gaps under the internal doors, so fitted them brush excluder things can't tell you the difference its made.
30. Loft insulation goes with out saying, there are some interesting products like sheeps wool , reused pulped paper, metalised film etc.
31. In the very coldest weather it is sometimes better to turn down the CH water temperature, but keep it running constant until the really cold weather breaks (I mean around zero during the day), as the boiler can really struggle to try and get the rooms up to temperature (using a lot more energy.) only to let then cool down after a few hours, then it has an even harder job to get the temperature up.The whole house doesn't seem to get warm. And I know the day thats the worsed here in the N.E, it's when we get a freezing fog all day, as there is no heat from the sun. As soon as thats looming the whole house rapidly gets colder rather than warmer if we use our normal heating times.)