Hi people
Fig trees are quite popular here in Hungary but my attempts to plant cuttings have been terrible! I'm trying to plant in a sheltered area as our winters are mean (possibly -20°C) whilst the summers are hot (it is 40°C now). What kind of cutting should I get? When should I attempt to plant the tree so it can last through the winter? and any other trips?
Does a young plant like lots of water/manure(I've pig poo!)?
Thanks any help!
Andy
Fig trees from Cuttings
- contadina
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Re: Fig trees from Cuttings
Over here in Italy they are generally grafted onto their own rootstock, and any type of cuttings (usually suckers) should only be planted during the dormant season. Although figs can withstand high temperatures and draught I'd been told their minimum temperature should be above -15 °, so I think you're best bet is to ask your neighbours to show you how and when they plant theirs.
- Davie Crockett
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Re: Fig trees from Cuttings
Prepare your nursery bed approx 1ft x 2ft (30 cm x 60cm) using ordinary soil and sharp sand to a 50/50 mix preferably in a semi shady site.
Take 6" cuttings (15cm) from the tips of branches when the leaves have dropped off. Scratch the bark above the cut to reveal the cambium (green under bark) up to about 1 inch (2.5cm) above the cut. At this stage you can dip in rooting hormone but they will root fairly well without. Insert the cuttings into the nursery bed at an angle of 45°and 15 cm apart. Water in and forget about them until spring. If you have exceptionally cold winters you could cover them with fleece during the hardest part.
Come the spring, prepare your final planting site by lining a hole with flag stones bottom and sides and fill with rubbish soil and light stones/gravel. Plant your rooted cutting in the middle of your pit. They are fairly thirsty and will need a lot of watering until they are established. The reason you restrict the root system with flagstones is to encourage fruiting. if you plant them in good soil and don't restrict the roots it will go mainly to leaf.
Also, figs are biannual fruits and the buds of next years fruit may need protection over the winter. if you can fan train them against a south facing wall you can minimise frost damage to buds.
Take 6" cuttings (15cm) from the tips of branches when the leaves have dropped off. Scratch the bark above the cut to reveal the cambium (green under bark) up to about 1 inch (2.5cm) above the cut. At this stage you can dip in rooting hormone but they will root fairly well without. Insert the cuttings into the nursery bed at an angle of 45°and 15 cm apart. Water in and forget about them until spring. If you have exceptionally cold winters you could cover them with fleece during the hardest part.
Come the spring, prepare your final planting site by lining a hole with flag stones bottom and sides and fill with rubbish soil and light stones/gravel. Plant your rooted cutting in the middle of your pit. They are fairly thirsty and will need a lot of watering until they are established. The reason you restrict the root system with flagstones is to encourage fruiting. if you plant them in good soil and don't restrict the roots it will go mainly to leaf.
Also, figs are biannual fruits and the buds of next years fruit may need protection over the winter. if you can fan train them against a south facing wall you can minimise frost damage to buds.
Time flies like an arrow; vinegar flies like an uncovered wine must.
Re: Fig trees from Cuttings
Wooh - Great information people! Thanks!
The only thing I've not gathered is when is the best time of year to try this? or is anytime good bah winter?
The only thing I've not gathered is when is the best time of year to try this? or is anytime good bah winter?
- Davie Crockett
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Re: Fig trees from Cuttings
Once the leaves have dropped, but at least 3 months before spring. The roots develop before the leaves shoot.
Time flies like an arrow; vinegar flies like an uncovered wine must.
- frozenthunderbolt
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Re: Fig trees from Cuttings
+1Davie Crockett wrote:Once the leaves have dropped, but at least 3 months before spring. The roots develop before the leaves shoot.
I go with second year wood at the ends with some 1st year on it. bung em in some potting mix and keep between 12-25 degreesish and relatively moist. 90% strike rate, no worries. I think -40 might be a bit much for them . . .
Jeremy Daniel Meadows. (Jed).
Those who walk in truth and love grow in honour and strength
Those who walk in truth and love grow in honour and strength