Also I have not treated their shed with any insecticide like I do in the chook shed, for the same reason.
What do people do?

http://www.domestic-waterfowl.co.uk/page10.htmWORMS
Cause. Ducks can be affected by any of the four types of worms that infest other domestic poultry roundworms (Ascaridia spp.); tapeworms; caecal worms (Heterakis spp.), and hairworms (Capillaria spp.).
Ages affected. All ages are affected, but older ducks have better resistance to worms than ducklings and generally show milder effects, if any. Young ducklings are particularly susceptible, and heavy worm infestations may kill them or stunt their growth.
Source of infection. The duck can become infested with worms by eating various insects, slugs or earthworms that may harbour stages of each parasite, or by eating worm eggs passed in the droppings of other birds. Worm eggs hatch in various sections of the gut. They reach maturity in 21&endash;100 days. During this period the immature stages can penetrate various organs. Some of the roundworm larvae can find their way into the bloodstream and thence to the liver or lungs, where they can cause damage.
Clinical signs. These vary enormously and will depend on the type of worms, degree of infestation and the age of the birds. Birds heavily infested with roundworms or hairworms may die suddenly. This often happens when large numbers of immature roundworms migrate through essential body organs .However birds more often do not die suddenly but develop poorly, become weak and eventually die. With heavy roundworm or hairworm infestation ducks almost always have a diarrhoea that can range from frothy yellow to blood-tinged. Occasionally they develop an unsteady gait and paralysis. With heavy tapeworm and caecal worm infestation ducks sometimes have diarrhoea, but often just show poor weight gain and a drop in egg production.
Diagnosis. The diagnosis can be made instantly if there are a large number of worms in the intestines at post-mortem. Alternatively, intestinal scrapings or samples from fresh droppings can be examined under a microscope.**A home test is to put fresh droppings in a jam jar add water...worms swim out...ugh!**
Treatment. There are two approaches to worm treatment: * the use of broad-spectrum chemicals that are effective against the major groups of worms * the use of narrow-spectrum chemicals that are effective against a particular type of worm A good broad-spectrum treatment can be achieved by the use of levamisole(sheep wormer). This chemical is effective against both mature and immature stages of roundworms, caecal worms and hairworms. For the treatment of roundworms exclusively, the various piperazine-based compounds are highly effective, provided the dose rate is adequate. If you need to treat caecal worms and tapeworms you can use phenothiazine and mansonil respectively. The drug dibutyltin-dilaurate is also effective against tapeworms, but it can cause a 10% drop in egg production.
Control and prevention. None of the chemicals mentioned earlier is effective against the egg stage of worms. Ducks run on deep litter or in open range will be reinfested unless husbandry and management procedures are directed towards prevention of reinfestation. You can achieve short-term prevention by repeating treatment of the whole flock after 2 weeks, 6 weeks and 3 months. Long-term solutions include various husbandry practices aimed at lowering the chance and degree of reinfestation. To minimise or prevent reinfestation with caecal worms, roundworms and hairworms, you should:
* rotate runs;* worm strategically at danger periods;* separate ducks of different age groups;* use reasonable stocking rates;* provide clean pens;
actually wild birds and animals die young compared to domestic birds, plus if a bird has a heavy worm burden they have less resistance to disease. Personally I would not eat eggs from a bird which had a heavy worm burden.Millymollymandy wrote:Thanks Paul. I do wonder sometimes because wild birds (and animals) manage all right without being wormed!
Your last comment made me giggle.
With all due respect, that was a rather silly thing to say.None of my livestock or pets are kept in concentration camp conditions but they all get wormed regularly, especially as I know that you don't always see evidence of worms in dropping, especially with fowl . I don't see what sheep dip has to do with anything . As for delousing, no you don't delouse the birds unless you see lice on them but it is wise to add louse powder to the nestbox to prevent a problem happening or minimising the problem when it occurs. I take it that your 7 year old son doesn't live like an animal does, doesn't eat his food off the ground and gets kept clean? Chickens aren't humans, they scratch about in the soil. The same soil that they, and wild birds crap on. Now unless you are saying that your son eats his dinner straight off the floor and drinks out of the toilet, you simply cannot compare worming fowl with headlice on your son.camillitech wrote:if i kept livestock in a concentration camp an enclosure or a grubby shed with lots of others then yes i would cover them in flea powder, shove drench, worming pills or whatever down their throats and throw them into baths of sheep dip as a matter of course. however if i had a few birds roaming wild and free or a few pigs in the wood (which i have) i would wait until i saw some sign of worm burden, fleas, ticks or whatever first. my seven year old boy sometimes gets head lice but i don't put flea powder on him beforehand just in caseand right now he has 12 sheep ticks on him but i'm not going to dip him
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hardly something to boast about is it?however i am no expert on the subject of ducks or hens and unlike some people have not even read a book on them.
so you have spoken to every single poultry keeper on the island?what i do is seek the advice of people who have lived and farmed on this island for generations so who am i to be the first person on raasay to worm his his hens or ducks![]()
fenwoman wrote:With all due respect, that was a rather silly thing to say.None of my livestock or pets are kept in concentration camp conditions but they all get wormed regularly, especially as I know that you don't always see evidence of worms in dropping, especially with fowl . I don't see what sheep dip has to do with anything . As for delousing, no you don't delouse the birds unless you see lice on them but it is wise to add louse powder to the nestbox to prevent a problem happening or minimising the problem when it occurs. I take it that your 7 year old son doesn't live like an animal does, doesn't eat his food off the ground and gets kept clean? Chickens aren't humans, they scratch about in the soil. The same soil that they, and wild birds crap on. Now unless you are saying that your son eats his dinner straight off the floor and drinks out of the toilet, you simply cannot compare worming fowl with headlice on your son.camillitech wrote:if i kept livestock in a concentration camp an enclosure or a grubby shed with lots of others then yes i would cover them in flea powder, shove drench, worming pills or whatever down their throats and throw them into baths of sheep dip as a matter of course. however if i had a few birds roaming wild and free or a few pigs in the wood (which i have) i would wait until i saw some sign of worm burden, fleas, ticks or whatever first. my seven year old boy sometimes gets head lice but i don't put flea powder on him beforehand just in caseand right now he has 12 sheep ticks on him but i'm not going to dip him
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hardly something to boast about is it?however i am no expert on the subject of ducks or hens and unlike some people have not even read a book on them.so you have spoken to every single poultry keeper on the island?what i do is seek the advice of people who have lived and farmed on this island for generations so who am i to be the first person on raasay to worm his his hens or ducks![]()
Let me ask you a question. If most of the poultry keepers on your island made their hens drink creosote would you follow suit simply because everyone was doing it?
Have you heard the expression "the blind leading the blind"?
If all the other poultry keepers you know are poor husbandrymen and use bad practices, why not educate yourself and be the one to set a good example. Raise the level of care instead of being happy to lower your standards to the lowest common denominator.
I know several dog owners who don't treat their dogs for fleas and never worm them. Their dogs spend miserable weeks scratching and biting at the irritation and even going bald from the bites and have staring coats and ravenous appetites from worms (which also pose a danger to children). Should I follow suit? Not likely. My dogs get wormed every 3 months, have gloriously shiny coats and get treated for fleas regularly too.
If you are happy to feed your child hens eggs which may contain worm eggs, more power to you. Personally, I prefer my hens to have the best level of care that I can give them and any keeper of any kind of animal will tell you that parasite control is the most basic but important level of care.